Lukas Mayerhofer Achieves First Ascent of Anam Cara Low (8C)
Lukas Mayerhofer continues to push boundaries in sport climbing with his latest achievement: the first ascent of Anam Cara Low (8C) in Silvretta, which integrates four additional hand moves into the existing Anam Cara (8B+).
Regarding the difficulty added by the new low start and your efforts, Mayerhofer explains, “I would say around 7C or 7C+, it’s not super hard but it adds quite a bit.” Reflecting on his journey to complete this project, Mayerhofer recalls, “I actually attempted the original start back in 2020 and soon discovered the lower moves, but lacked the strength at that time. It remained on my mind for years, attempting it sporadically without success. This year, with a renewed mindset, I managed to complete it in just three sessions.”
Mayerhofer’s dedication and perseverance in refining his climbing technique and overcoming physical challenges highlight his commitment to pushing the limits of the sport. His successful ascent of Anam Cara Low underscores his status as a trailblazer in the climbing community.
Source: https://www.8a.nu/news
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Ainhize Belar Barrutia Conquers Parasitorik ez (8c)
Ainhize Belar Barrutia, known for her impressive ascent of 16 routes ranging from 8c to 9a, recently achieved another milestone by completing Parasitorik ez (8c) in Araotz/Oñate. The 18-year-old climber, pictured here sending Honky Tonky (8c), reflected on her accomplishment: “It was the first time I visited Korea [sector] this year, aiming to reacquaint myself with the climbing style. Parasitorik ez is renowned for its straightforward yet demanding style, characterized by endurance rather than tricks. After three attempts, I successfully conquered the route.”
This achievement underscores Barrutia’s prowess and determination in the competitive climbing scene, marking her continued ascent in the sport.
Source: https://www.8a.nu/news/ainhize-belar-barrutia-completes-parasitorik-ez-8c
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Ievgeniia Kazbekova: Courage in Climbing and Family Dynamics in a Champion’s Journey
Climbing Beginnings: A Family Legacy
For Ievgeniia Kazbekova, better known as “Jenya,” learning to climb was as natural as learning to walk. Growing up with national champion climbers for parents, she found herself surrounded by competitions from a young age. Instead of traditional toys, Jenya played with climbing gear, quickly developing a passion for the sport.
Courage and Determination from Childhood
From a young age, Kazbekova demonstrated remarkable courage and determination. She recalls, “I just do not remember myself not climbing; it’s like a part of me.” With a lineage of climbers, including her grandmother, a champion in speed climbing, Jenya was born into a dynasty of climbers.
The Challenges of Being Coached by Family
As Kazbekova advanced in her climbing career, she faced the unique challenge of being coached by her parents. While their mentorship was invaluable, it also led to typical teenage clashes. “As a young adult, you do not know how to navigate your feelings or emotions,” she explains. Despite the struggles, she found her way back to her parents’ coaching as an adult, appreciating their lessons more deeply.
Finding Her Own Path
At 19, Kazbekova began to question her identity and ambitions. She needed to determine if her passion for climbing was truly hers or influenced by her parents. Moving to another city helped her rediscover her love for the sport. “I do love it,” she affirms, indicating her continued dedication and success in climbing.
Kazbekova’s journey highlights the importance of self-discovery, courage, and the powerful influence of family. Her story is an inspiring testament to pursuing one’s passion with determination and heart.
Source: https://olympics.com/en/news/ievgeniia-kazbekova-ukraine-climbing-lessons-brave-fear-ok
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Paris 2024: Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games
History of Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is a relatively recent sport, with the first competitions starting in the 1980s. It made its Olympic debut at the Buenos Aires Youth Games in 2018, and was included again in the Tokyo 2021 Games. It will be part of the Paris 2024 and Los Angeles 2028 Games as well.
Paris 2024 Event Schedule
The sport climbing events at Paris 2024 will be held from August 5 to 10 at the Le Bourget climbing site. The schedule includes:
– August 5, 2024
– 10:00 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder D-Final
– 13:00 – Women’s Speed, Time Trial Qualification
– 13:40 – Women’s Speed, Dual Qualification
– August 6, 2024
– 10:00 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder D-Final
– 13:00 – Men’s Speed, Time Trial Qualification
– 13:40 – Men’s Speed, Dual Qualification
– August 7, 2024
– 10:00 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final
– 12:28 – Women’s Speed Quarter-finals
– 12:46 – Women’s Speed Semi-finals
– 12:55 – Women’s Speed Final
– August 8, 2024
– 10:00 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final
– 12:28 – Men’s Speed Quarter-finals
– 12:46 – Men’s Speed Semi-finals
– 12:55 – Men’s Speed Final
– August 9, 2024
– 10:15 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder Final
– 12:28 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final đ„
– August 10, 2024
– 10:15 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder Final
– 12:28 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final đ„
Evolution of Competitive Climbing
Competitive sport climbing started in the mid-1980s in Italy and later in France, with events held on artificial walls. By the early 1990s, international tournaments moved indoors to protect natural environments.
Disciplines in Sport Climbing
Sport climbing has three main disciplines:
– Speed: A 15-meter inclined wall climb completed in under six seconds for men and seven seconds for women.
– Bouldering: Climbers tackle a 4.5-meter wall without ropes, aiming for speed and efficiency.
– Difficulty: Climbers ascend a 15-meter wall within six minutes without prior route knowledge. In Paris, the bouldering and difficulty events will be combined.
Notable Athletes and Records
The first Olympic champions were Janja Garnbret (Slovenia) and Alberto Ginés (Spain). The world speed records are held by Kiromal Katibin (Indonesia) with 5 seconds, and Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland) with 6.52 seconds.
French Contenders
French athletes like Fanny Gibert, Anouck Jaubert, Manuel Cornu, and Julia Chanourdie are strong contenders for medals at Paris 2024. Their performances will be closely watched as they compete on home soil.
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Unparallel Up Lace climbing shoes review: stiff soles ensure confidence on small edges and when smearing
Combining the technical capability of a high-performance sport climbing shoe, with the fan favorite rubber from Unparallel, the Unparallel Up Lace shoes are like the not-so-secret love child between the La Sportiva Miura and Five Ten Anasazi Pink, due to their looks and stiff shoe performance. Already a firm favorite among outdoor steep wall climbers, the Unparallel Up Lace shoes are for those who love a stiff lace-up shoe, thanks to the speed lacing system, generous rubber rand and stiff midsole. For climbers wanting support from their climbing sole alongside a decent sticky rubber, theyâre some of the best climbing shoes on the market.
There are many reasons why you should care about the sole of your climbing shoe â for starters, itâs the reason you may stick or come off the rock. The Unparallel Up Lace is a stiffer shoe thatâs perfect for edging, heel hooks and smearing thanks to the use of Unparallelâs harder rubber compound. The Unparallel RH (Real Honor) sole is much more resilient and a stiffer rubber than the RS (Real Supreme) rubber thatâs found in the companyâs more sensitive sole shoes such as the Unparallel Flagship.
Unparallel Up Lace climbing shoes: on the rockface
The Unparallel Up Lace shoes are at their best when leading the way on steep terrain, feeling perfectly at home on slippery rock surfaces such as limestone and when trusting small protrusions in the rock. Theyâre also ideal for edging â using the sides and other parts of the shoe to find grip on the most unlikely of surfaces.
The Unparallel RH (Real Honor) rubber is a longer lasting sole, meaning the shoes are less likely to need resoling too often. Use of the speed lacing system allows for the shoes to grip the top of the foot and stop it moving around by anchoring it into place. This makes the shoe an ideal go-to for steeper, longer vertical climbs where maximum support is beneficial. A fully-lined synthetic upper with a suede-like material means the shoes are also vegan friendly.
If you are used to wearing a softer soled shoe, youâll note the difference in how tired your calves will feel on longer vertical routes. While the Unparallel Up Lace took a little bit more time to âwear inâ, they were my go-to pair for a precision fit that gave plenty of feedback and trust in my footwork.
Testing these shoes on a trip to some of the steeper multi-pitch walls of Sax and Marin, I learnt to get on with the Unparallel Up Lace shoes â but found they felt better when they weren’t in the heat of the direct midday sun. Itâs worth bearing in mind that when climbing in warmer climates to usual your feet can swell and suddenly technically sized shoes can be noticeable for all the wrong reasons! I found the confidence I had on vertical walls was far better when I kept the shoes in the shade and tried to ventilate my feet between climbs.
Sizing wise, I typically wear a European size 40 in trainers, but I am used to wearing tighter climbing shoes. For the Unparallel Up Lace shoes, I tried several pairs on in-store and decided on a European 38.5 which felt quite tight. If I wanted a more relaxed fit for more all-day wear, I would opt for a size 39.
Janja Garnbret Climbs V15âTwice!
Janja Garnbret has made an impressively fast ascent of BĂŒgeleisen Sit (V15) in Austriaâs Maltatal area. When her coach Roman Krajnik showed Garnbret the send footage, she was apparently unhappy with his filmmaking and climbed the entire problem a second time. Whatâs more, she clearly still had gas in the tank; she gave the camera a casual thumbs up after her quick repeat.
The 25-year-old Slovenian sent BĂŒgeleisen Stand (V14) in 2022 and spent the intervening years leveling up her fitness to complete the sit start. Her progress was blindingly obvious. Garnbret said it took her âless than half an hourâ to work the entire problemâs beta and send it. (Before, of course, sending it again.) Garnbret is pleased to report that hers is the first female ascent of BĂŒgeleisen Sit.
Garnbret is no stranger to news-making ascents. She was the first woman to onsight 5.14b, has redpointed up to 5.14d, and bouldered two V14s, plus BĂŒgeleisen Sit. As Owen Clarke wrote in Climbingâs biography of Garnbret, she is also perhaps the greatest competition climber of all time, with 41 World Cup gold medals and an Olympic gold to her name. In 2019, she became the first climber to take first place in every event of a single discipline during a single season, winning all six Bouldering World Cup competitions.
BĂŒgeleisen Sit was first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, when he added three desperate moves to the stand start. Although Garnbret makes the problem look like V10 in her video, BĂŒgeleisen Sit is rarely climbedâin fact, it was the problemâs sixth (and seventh) ascent.
Source: https://www.climbing.com/news/janja-garnbret-climbs-v15/
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