Sonnie Trotter Wins 9a Bet Against Honnold and Caldwell
A few days ago, Sonnie Trotter achieved a significant milestone by completing the 9a route Spirit Quest in Squamish. This accomplishment not only highlights his exceptional skills but also marks his victory in the “Gentlemen’s Race” against climbing legends Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell.
The Gentlemen’s Race: A Friendly Challenge
Sonnie Trotter, Tommy Caldwell, and Alex Honnold are renowned climbers who have greatly influenced the sport. To motivate each other as they age and balance family life, they initiated the “Gentlemen’s Race to 9a.” This friendly competition aimed to see who could be the first to complete a 9a sport climbing route. Trotter joined the race last August and has now emerged victorious.
Dedication and Persistence Pay Off
For Trotter, the journey to completing Spirit Quest was a lengthy one, involving 30 days of effort over 20 months. Reflecting on his achievement, he expressed gratitude for the friendly competition, stating, “Without the pressure, encouragement, and recognition from my friends Tommy and Alex, I probably wouldn’t have managed it so quickly.”
Trotter’s success on Spirit Quest, 20 years after his first 9a route, underscores his enduring talent and determination in the world of climbing.
Source: https://www.lacrux.com/en/klettern/sonnie-trotter-wins-9a-bet-against-honnold-and-caldwell/
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Sonnie Trotter Conquers Spirit Quest at 44
Sonnie Trotter, a 44-year-old climber with an impressive trad climbing resume, has successfully completed the Spirit Quest (9a) in Squamish. This achievement, announced on his Instagram, marks the culmination of a 20-month-long endeavor. During this period, Trotter dedicated nearly 30 days to conquering this challenging route. He described Spirit Quest as “one of the most beautiful faces I’ve seen, dotted by impeccable (and sometimes improbable) granite edges, surrounded by old growth trees and thriving bird life.”
A Legacy of Excellence
Trotter’s journey in the 9a category began in 2004 with his ascent of Forever Expired at Lion’s Head, a route that remains unrepeated to this day. His second 9a came in 2015 with Estado Critico. These feats highlight his exceptional skill and commitment to pushing the boundaries of climbing.
Training and Progressing Beyond 40
Trotter attributes his success to a careful and focused training regimen designed to avoid injury and build strength and stamina. He emphasizes the importance of controlled movements, gradual weight addition, and finger strength training. Trotter firmly believes that climbers can continue to progress well into their 40s and beyond, provided they maintain focus and approach their training strategically.
The Path to Spirit Quest
The path to completing Spirit Quest was a rigorous and disciplined one. Trotter’s training routine reflects a balance between rock climbing and off-season training, which he adapts based on different phases such as endurance, strength, and stamina. His typical training sessions last between one to three hours a day, ensuring he maintains peak physical condition.
Looking Ahead: Summer Plans and Climbing Routine
As summer unfolds, Trotter has an array of new projects lined up, brimming with inspiration and challenges. He plans to climb at least two to three days a week and continue his dedicated training regime. During the off-season, his training frequency varies from two to five days a week, depending on the phase he is in.
A Testament to Dedication
Sonnie Trotter’s ascent of Spirit Quest (9a) at the age of 44 is a testament to his unwavering dedication, strategic training, and passion for climbing. His journey inspires climbers of all ages to pursue their goals with focus and resilience, proving that age is no barrier to achieving new heights in the world of climbing.
