Angus Kille Onsights Styx (E7 6c) at Fair Head
A thrilling new video showcases climber Angus Kille tackling the bold trad route Styx (E7 6c) in Northern Ireland’s Fair Head. This 60-meter pitch is not for the faint-hearted, requiring not only a well-considered selection of gear but also the skills to place it effectively while on the move. Onsighting such a challenging route demands exceptional route reading, unwavering determination, and the endurance to persist through tough sections.
At the 2019 Fair Head meet, Kille demonstrated these qualities in abundance as he pushed ground-up on this gear-intensive classic. His impressive ascent highlights not only his technical prowess but also his mental fortitude in tackling one of Ireland’s more daunting climbs.
For fans of Kille’s climbing exploits, he shares regular updates and climbing content on his Instagram and newly launched YouTube channel, where viewers can expect more of his impressive and inspiring climbs.
Source: https://gripped.com/news/angus-kille-onsights-spicy-trad-in-ireland/
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Nine Miles of Climbing Determination: Conquering Arizona’s 9 Mile Cigarette
In the rugged terrain of Insomnia Canyon, Arizona, climbers find some of the most demanding trad routes in the United States. One such route is the 5.13- five-pitch climb known as 9 Mile Cigarette. Named after a lyric from John Prine’s song “When I Get to Heaven,” this route was first ascended by Joel Unema and has recently seen a repeat by Forest Altherr.
Unema’s initial ascent of 9 Mile Cigarette was documented on his blog, Grass Routes Climbing. He described the first three pitches, which are graded at 5.12, 5.11, and 5.12, as offering varied climbing on cracks of all sizes, often with supportive feet and face holds. These pitches are nestled in a shady gully, staying cool even during the summer.
Unema’s journey continued with Zach Harrison, but it was with Wilson Cutbirth that he tackled the route’s most challenging sections. The fourth pitch, rated 5.13, is the crux of the climb, followed by a final, slightly sandy but still strenuous, 5.12 pitch. Unema successfully led both these pitches under crisp conditions, completing the ascent.
Now featured in a new short film, 9 Mile Cigarette remains a testament to the evolving challenges and triumphs of trad climbing in Arizona.
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Rivals on the Same Team: A Dramatic Olympic Qualifier Final
In an intense twist of fate, teammates from Team France found themselves battling against each other for a coveted spot in the 2024 Olympics during the Men’s Olympic Qualifier Series final. While stars like Adam Ondra and Dohyun Lee had already secured their tickets to Paris in the semi-finals, the drama was far from over for the French team.
Paul Jenft, Sam Avezou, and Mejdi Schalck had all accumulated impressive scores, surpassing some already-qualified athletes. However, Olympic rules limited each country to only two male representatives, leading to an emotionally charged showdown in the finals to determine who would represent France.
Jenft, despite his strong performance, didn’t make it past the semi-finals. This left Avezou and Schalck to battle it out, knowing their Olympic dreams would come at the expense of their teammate. The Boulder round was grueling, with Avezou performing the best among the competitors, placing him in a strong position heading into the Lead round.
In the Lead round, Avezou’s consistent performance secured him the gold with 105.6 points, thus earning his Olympic spot. Schalck, unfortunately, fell short, placing sixth overall and missing out on the Olympic team.
After his victory, Avezou expressed mixed emotions, elated with his win but empathetic towards his teammate. He voiced a heartfelt plea for more spots in future Olympics to avoid such painful scenarios. This emotional and thrilling final highlighted not only the competitive spirit of the athletes but also the deep camaraderie and mutual respect that defines their sport.
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Ascending Heights: Pietro Vidi Conquers 8C+ ‘Fuck the System’ and Defines a New Era in Bouldering
Pietro Vidi, a 21-year-old prodigy from Italy, has firmly established himself among the upper echelons of the bouldering world with his latest ascent of “Fuck the System,” an imposing 8C+ grade problem. This achievement comes on the heels of an impressive streak where Vidi conquered six 8Cs, five of them accomplished in the past year alone, showcasing his rapid ascent to prominence in the climbing community.
Located in Fionnay, Switzerland, “Fuck the System” is a significant challenge that represents the sit start to Dave Graham’s renowned “Foundation’s Edge” (8C), which was first completed by Shawn Raboutou in 2021. Vidi had previously attempted “Foundation’s Edge” last summer but struggled with the intricate kneebar crux. Undeterred, he dedicated a season in Bavona under the mentorship of Dave Graham himself, focusing on refining his technical skills and mental fortitude.
Upon returning to Fionnay, Vidi quickly unlocked the crucial knee sequence, despite the added difficulty caused by a slightly crumbling foothold. Overcoming multiple setbacks during the ascent, including challenging weather conditions, Vidi described the climb as a “real battle,” pushing himself to the limit. At one point, he found himself on the verge of giving up, only to summon the resolve to envision success and persevere through sheer determination.
Reflecting on his accomplishment, Vidi acknowledges that his first 8C+ ascent marks a significant milestone in his climbing career, yet he remains hungry for more challenges ahead. His journey underscores not only his technical prowess but also his unwavering commitment to pushing boundaries in the sport of bouldering. As he continues to evolve as a climber, Pietro Vidi’s ascent of “Fuck the System” is not just a triumph but a testament to the endless possibilities in the world of climbing.
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Mastering Rock Climbing Terms: A Quick Guide
Rock climbing comes with its own unique set of terms that are crucial for both safety and effective communication on the wall. From basic gear to advanced techniques, understanding this vocabulary is essential. Here’s a rundown of some common rock climbing terms to get you started.
Belay: The Safety Backbone
The term “belay” refers to the technique of managing the rope to protect a climber in case of a fall. A belayer is responsible for catching falls and lowering climbers back to the ground safely. Proper belaying is fundamental for ensuring both the climber’s and belayer’s safety.
Harness: Your Lifeline
A climbing harness is a vital piece of equipment worn by climbers. It secures the climber to the rope and distributes the force of a fall across the body, allowing for comfortable hanging during rest periods or belaying.
Carabiner: The Connector
Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates, used to connect various climbing equipment like ropes and harnesses. They are essential for attaching the climber to the rope and anchor points, ensuring stability and safety.
Dyno: The Leap of Faith
A “dyno” is a dynamic climbing move where the climber jumps or leaps to grab a hold that is out of reach from a static position. This technique requires precision and power, making it a thrilling but challenging maneuver.
Quickdraw: The Essential Clip
A quickdraw is a piece of climbing equipment used to attach the climbing rope to bolt anchors or other protection. It consists of two carabiners connected by a short, durable sling. Quickdraws are essential for leading climbs and ensuring the rope runs smoothly through protection points.
Join the Climbing Community
With these fundamental terms under your belt, you’ll be well-prepared to understand and engage with fellow climbers. To see these terms in action and learn more, watch Sasha DiGiulian’s HBO sports documentary, “Here to Climb,” streaming on June 18 on Max and on June 19 at 3:00 AM CET on Red Bull TV.
Embrace the climbing lingo and get ready to navigate the cliffs with confidence and precision. Happy climbing!
Source: https://www.redbull.com/us-en/rock-climbing-terms
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Janja Garnbret Climbs V15—Twice!
Janja Garnbret has made an impressively fast ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15) in Austria’s Maltatal area. When her coach Roman Krajnik showed Garnbret the send footage, she was apparently unhappy with his filmmaking and climbed the entire problem a second time. What’s more, she clearly still had gas in the tank; she gave the camera a casual thumbs up after her quick repeat.
The 25-year-old Slovenian sent Bügeleisen Stand (V14) in 2022 and spent the intervening years leveling up her fitness to complete the sit start. Her progress was blindingly obvious. Garnbret said it took her “less than half an hour” to work the entire problem’s beta and send it. (Before, of course, sending it again.) Garnbret is pleased to report that hers is the first female ascent of Bügeleisen Sit.
Garnbret is no stranger to news-making ascents. She was the first woman to onsight 5.14b, has redpointed up to 5.14d, and bouldered two V14s, plus Bügeleisen Sit. As Owen Clarke wrote in Climbing’s biography of Garnbret, she is also perhaps the greatest competition climber of all time, with 41 World Cup gold medals and an Olympic gold to her name. In 2019, she became the first climber to take first place in every event of a single discipline during a single season, winning all six Bouldering World Cup competitions.
Bügeleisen Sit was first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, when he added three desperate moves to the stand start. Although Garnbret makes the problem look like V10 in her video, Bügeleisen Sit is rarely climbed—in fact, it was the problem’s sixth (and seventh) ascent.
Source: https://www.climbing.com/news/janja-garnbret-climbs-v15/
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