Janja Garnbret Climbs V15—Twice!

Janja Garnbret has made an impressively fast ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15) in Austria’s Maltatal area. When her coach Roman Krajnik showed Garnbret the send footage, she was apparently unhappy with his filmmaking and climbed the entire problem a second time. What’s more, she clearly still had gas in the tank; she gave the camera a casual thumbs up after her quick repeat.

The 25-year-old Slovenian sent Bügeleisen Stand (V14) in 2022 and spent the intervening years leveling up her fitness to complete the sit start. Her progress was blindingly obvious. Garnbret said it took her “less than half an hour” to work the entire problem’s beta and send it. (Before, of course, sending it again.) Garnbret is pleased to report that hers is the first female ascent of Bügeleisen Sit.

Garnbret is no stranger to news-making ascents. She was the first woman to onsight 5.14b, has redpointed up to 5.14d, and bouldered two V14s, plus Bügeleisen Sit. As Owen Clarke wrote in Climbing’s biography of Garnbret, she is also perhaps the greatest competition climber of all time, with 41 World Cup gold medals and an Olympic gold to her name. In 2019, she became the first climber to take first place in every event of a single discipline during a single season, winning all six Bouldering World Cup competitions.

Bügeleisen Sit was first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, when he added three desperate moves to the stand start. Although Garnbret makes the problem look like V10 in her video, Bügeleisen Sit is rarely climbed—in fact, it was the problem’s sixth (and seventh) ascent.


Source: https://www.climbing.com/news/janja-garnbret-climbs-v15/

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