Janja Garnbret Secures Lead World Cup Victory in Thrilling Finish
Janja Garnbret, the unstoppable force from Slovenia, clinched yet another remarkable victory at the Innsbruck World Cup, solidifying her dominance in lead climbing. In a tense finale that kept spectators on the edge of their seats, Garnbret emerged victorious after a nail-biting ascent.
The women’s Lead final witnessed fierce competition, with notable performances from athletes like South Korea’s Chaehyun Seo and Japan’s Ai Mori. Seo set a high standard early on, reaching hold 36 before the challenging dyno sequence proved insurmountable for many contenders, including Austria’s Jessica Pilz and Team USA’s Annie Sanders.
Mori’s ascent added to the drama as she navigated through the dyno and conquered the final runout crux with seconds to spare, almost slipping at the summit but maintaining her grip to secure a remarkable finish.
However, it was Garnbret who stole the show as the last climber of the evening. Needing to top the route to claim gold, the 25-year-old Slovenian faced challenges at the final crux after utilizing an awkward rest stance to conserve energy. With the clock ticking down, Garnbret powered through the crux, secured the crucial ‘Top’ hold, and expertly clipped the chains with mere seconds remaining.
Commentator Matt Groom’s exclamation, “She’s gotta make the quickdraw!” echoed the tension of the moment as Garnbret sealed her victory with just three seconds on the clock. This triumph marks Garnbret’s 28th Lead World Cup gold medal, adding to her impressive tally of 29 golds, 12 silvers, and 5 bronzes across World Cup and World Championship competitions.
As the Innsbruck double champion in both Boulder and Lead disciplines this year, Garnbret’s unparalleled skill and determination make her a formidable contender as she gears up for the upcoming Olympics.
Source: https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/with-three-seconds-left-janja-garnbret-wins-lead-world-cup/
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Janja Garnbret Returns to the World Cup in Innsbruck: The Anticipated Climbing Battle
Innsbruck, Austria, is gearing up for one of the most anticipated climbing events of the year, serving as a prelude to the 2024 Paris Olympics. Janja Garnbret, the Slovenian powerhouse, is set to make her final World Cup appearance before focusing solely on Olympic preparation. This decision marks a strategic move for Garnbret, who aims to optimize her training and readiness for Paris by skipping the subsequent competitions in Chamonix and Briançon.
Garnbret won’t be alone in Innsbruck; she’ll face formidable competition from a lineup of top athletes who are also gearing up for the Olympics. Among them are Jakob Schubert, Alberto Ginés López, and Alex Megos in the men’s category, while the women’s field features talents like Oriane Bertone and Ai Mori. These climbers represent a glimpse into what promises to be an electrifying preview of the upcoming Olympic climbing events.
Notably absent from the roster are several athletes who have opted to bypass Innsbruck to fine-tune their preparations for the Olympics. This includes Adam Ondra and Brooke Raboutou, whose focus remains squarely on peak performance in Paris.
For fans eager to catch the action, the event spans multiple days with separate competitions for Boulder and Lead climbing disciplines. Boulder competitions are scheduled for Wednesday through Friday, while Lead events will take place over the weekend.
In addition to Garnbret, the event will showcase a strong contingent of Canadian and American climbers. From Canada, athletes like Maddie Richardson and Oscar Baudrand will be vying for top honors, while the U.S. team boasts talents such as Kyra Condie and Colin Duffy, each eager to make their mark on the international stage.
For climbing enthusiasts worldwide, Innsbruck promises not just thrilling competition but also a critical preview of the stars destined for Olympic glory. Stay tuned as these athletes ascend to new heights in pursuit of their Olympic dreams.
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Paris 2024: Sport Climbing at the Olympic Games
History of Sport Climbing
Sport climbing is a relatively recent sport, with the first competitions starting in the 1980s. It made its Olympic debut at the Buenos Aires Youth Games in 2018, and was included again in the Tokyo 2021 Games. It will be part of the Paris 2024 and Los Angeles 2028 Games as well.
Paris 2024 Event Schedule
The sport climbing events at Paris 2024 will be held from August 5 to 10 at the Le Bourget climbing site. The schedule includes:
– August 5, 2024
– 10:00 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder D-Final
– 13:00 – Women’s Speed, Time Trial Qualification
– 13:40 – Women’s Speed, Dual Qualification
– August 6, 2024
– 10:00 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder D-Final
– 13:00 – Men’s Speed, Time Trial Qualification
– 13:40 – Men’s Speed, Dual Qualification
– August 7, 2024
– 10:00 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final
– 12:28 – Women’s Speed Quarter-finals
– 12:46 – Women’s Speed Semi-finals
– 12:55 – Women’s Speed Final
– August 8, 2024
– 10:00 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final
– 12:28 – Men’s Speed Quarter-finals
– 12:46 – Men’s Speed Semi-finals
– 12:55 – Men’s Speed Final
– August 9, 2024
– 10:15 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder Final
– 12:28 – Men’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final 🥇
– August 10, 2024
– 10:15 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Boulder Final
– 12:28 – Women’s Boulder & Difficulty, Difficulty D-Final 🥇
Evolution of Competitive Climbing
Competitive sport climbing started in the mid-1980s in Italy and later in France, with events held on artificial walls. By the early 1990s, international tournaments moved indoors to protect natural environments.
Disciplines in Sport Climbing
Sport climbing has three main disciplines:
– Speed: A 15-meter inclined wall climb completed in under six seconds for men and seven seconds for women.
– Bouldering: Climbers tackle a 4.5-meter wall without ropes, aiming for speed and efficiency.
– Difficulty: Climbers ascend a 15-meter wall within six minutes without prior route knowledge. In Paris, the bouldering and difficulty events will be combined.
Notable Athletes and Records
The first Olympic champions were Janja Garnbret (Slovenia) and Alberto Ginés (Spain). The world speed records are held by Kiromal Katibin (Indonesia) with 5 seconds, and Aleksandra Miroslaw (Poland) with 6.52 seconds.
French Contenders
French athletes like Fanny Gibert, Anouck Jaubert, Manuel Cornu, and Julia Chanourdie are strong contenders for medals at Paris 2024. Their performances will be closely watched as they compete on home soil.
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Janja Garnbret Climbs V15—Twice!
Janja Garnbret has made an impressively fast ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15) in Austria’s Maltatal area. When her coach Roman Krajnik showed Garnbret the send footage, she was apparently unhappy with his filmmaking and climbed the entire problem a second time. What’s more, she clearly still had gas in the tank; she gave the camera a casual thumbs up after her quick repeat.
The 25-year-old Slovenian sent Bügeleisen Stand (V14) in 2022 and spent the intervening years leveling up her fitness to complete the sit start. Her progress was blindingly obvious. Garnbret said it took her “less than half an hour” to work the entire problem’s beta and send it. (Before, of course, sending it again.) Garnbret is pleased to report that hers is the first female ascent of Bügeleisen Sit.
Garnbret is no stranger to news-making ascents. She was the first woman to onsight 5.14b, has redpointed up to 5.14d, and bouldered two V14s, plus Bügeleisen Sit. As Owen Clarke wrote in Climbing’s biography of Garnbret, she is also perhaps the greatest competition climber of all time, with 41 World Cup gold medals and an Olympic gold to her name. In 2019, she became the first climber to take first place in every event of a single discipline during a single season, winning all six Bouldering World Cup competitions.
Bügeleisen Sit was first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, when he added three desperate moves to the stand start. Although Garnbret makes the problem look like V10 in her video, Bügeleisen Sit is rarely climbed—in fact, it was the problem’s sixth (and seventh) ascent.
Source: https://www.climbing.com/news/janja-garnbret-climbs-v15/
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