Lucas Uchida Conquers Sword in the Stone V14 in Squamish
Canadian climber Lucas Uchida made headlines on June 16 with his impressive second ascent of the challenging Sword in the Stone V14 in Squamish. Originally known as the Excalibur Project, this problem was established by Ethan Salvo in October of the previous year. Uchida’s achievement marks another significant milestone in his climbing career, known for its strength and technical prowess.
The Sword in the Stone V14, located to the right of the future classic Merlin V12, demands climbers to execute a series of strength-draining moves culminating in a giant lunge to the lip. Uchida’s success on this route underscores his exceptional ability to handle such physically demanding problems. “I was lucky to find a great post-rain window to get this Ethan Salvo line done today on a solo mission out,” Uchida shared on Instagram, emphasizing the unique nature of the boulder with its clear holds and numerous options for beta.
Lucas Uchida is renowned as one of Canada’s strongest climbers. His list of accomplishments in Squamish includes some of the most difficult lines, such as Dreamcatcher 5.14d, The Singularity V15, Zazen V15, Deadlift V14, Room Service Low V14, The Megg V14, and North North Ridge V14. Uchida has also contributed to the climbing community by establishing notable problems like Seven V14/15 and Offenders of the Faith V13.
Uchida’s climbing feats are not confined to Squamish. Last summer, he took a short trip to Colorado, where he repeated challenging problems such as Ode to the Modern Man V14 and To Your Scattered Bodies Go V14. Additionally, his winter trip to Bishop saw him sending a series of classic V13s, including Spectre, The Swarm, The Mandala Sit, and Buttermilker.
Lucas Uchida’s successful ascent of Sword in the Stone V14 is a testament to his skill and dedication in the sport of climbing. As more climbers attempt this problem, it will be fascinating to see the various beta and techniques they employ. Uchida’s ongoing achievements continue to inspire climbers around the world and contribute to the evolving landscape of competitive climbing.
In conclusion, Uchida’s remarkable ascent of Sword in the Stone V14 adds another notable chapter to his already impressive climbing career. His ability to conquer such formidable challenges solidifies his status as one of the top climbers in Canada and the world.
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Janja Garnbret Climbs V15—Twice!
Janja Garnbret has made an impressively fast ascent of Bügeleisen Sit (V15) in Austria’s Maltatal area. When her coach Roman Krajnik showed Garnbret the send footage, she was apparently unhappy with his filmmaking and climbed the entire problem a second time. What’s more, she clearly still had gas in the tank; she gave the camera a casual thumbs up after her quick repeat.
The 25-year-old Slovenian sent Bügeleisen Stand (V14) in 2022 and spent the intervening years leveling up her fitness to complete the sit start. Her progress was blindingly obvious. Garnbret said it took her “less than half an hour” to work the entire problem’s beta and send it. (Before, of course, sending it again.) Garnbret is pleased to report that hers is the first female ascent of Bügeleisen Sit.
Garnbret is no stranger to news-making ascents. She was the first woman to onsight 5.14b, has redpointed up to 5.14d, and bouldered two V14s, plus Bügeleisen Sit. As Owen Clarke wrote in Climbing’s biography of Garnbret, she is also perhaps the greatest competition climber of all time, with 41 World Cup gold medals and an Olympic gold to her name. In 2019, she became the first climber to take first place in every event of a single discipline during a single season, winning all six Bouldering World Cup competitions.
Bügeleisen Sit was first climbed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, when he added three desperate moves to the stand start. Although Garnbret makes the problem look like V10 in her video, Bügeleisen Sit is rarely climbed—in fact, it was the problem’s sixth (and seventh) ascent.
Source: https://www.climbing.com/news/janja-garnbret-climbs-v15/
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