THERE GOES MY HERO

I grew up surfing in a place where it was pretty much standard to have the lineup all to yourself. Or, if you were lucky, you might have a couple of friends to trade waves with. (This was in California, by the way— South of San Francisco, if you can believe it). Granted, you were alone because you were surfing the foggiest, coldest, most depressing closeouts or the weirdest, boil-ridden reefs you could possibly imagine. Still, empty, albeit imperfect, breaks were the norm. But, occasionally, I’d paddle out, look down the mostly-deserted beach and see a mysterious, hooded regularfoot stylishly working over an empty peak. Every time I’d glance in his direction, there he’d be, making a psychotically late drop, flinging a big arc of spray skyward after a high-velocity turn, or tucking into a long, sand-sucking tube where I’d seen nothing but dribbly bullshit before. Then, poof, he’d be gone—a ghost vanished over the iceplant-studded dunes. I was fascinated.

There weren’t many world-class rippers in this area, so I presumed that each time I sat there slackjawed, watching a mysto surfer tear the bag out of the place, it was always the same mysto surfer. Indeed, I had to presume that, because I never actually met him. Or at least if I did—perhaps serving me a greasy basket of fish and chips as a waiter in one of the zillions of bayside seafood joints in my hometown, or maybe drawing my espresso shot as a barista, or lecturing one of my courses in college—I was never able to recognize him as the anonymous guy ripping down the beach. Come to think of it, that was actually the nickname my friends and I bestowed upon the unknown shredder: “Guy Ripping Down the Beach.”

That’s because the misfit stars seem within reach. We can, if we squint, imagine ourselves in their place.

Guy Ripping Down the Beach became something of a hero to me in my teens and early twenties. He was almost aggressively non-descript with his all-black suit and all-white board, actively trying to surf alone with nobody but me and the seals to witness his otherworldly shralping. He never stuck around the lot to hang out for some post-surf chat in the battered Volkswagen Eurovan he drove. GRDTB just showed up, punched his timecard, absolutely killed it for two hours, punched out, and left. So blue collar and workman-like was his approach, he may as well have paddled out with a battered Stanley thermos and a hardhat.

Now bear with me here while I connect two seemingly disparate dots, but I was thinking of GRDTB the other night after watching HBO’s “Ballers.” The episode I saw, from 2018, featured both Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton as surfers at the top of the surf world relevance pyramid, with a sports marketing group (led by a character played by Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson) desperate to keep the two most famous surfers on earth in their portfolio. In 2018, that duo was a strange choice as the most-beloved representatives of a typically youth-oriented corner of the sports world, considering Slater was 65 years old and Laird is an immortal Greek god who’s walked the earth for untold millennia. (I kid, I kid. Slater is actually only 51).

I started thinking about GRDTB because while it’s easy to see why Slater and Laird would be Hollywood’s favorite surfers, with landlubbing producers just assuming the two surfers with high mainstream appeal are also surf world heroes, I wondered how many hardcore surfers would put either of them in their list of favorite surfers. Even at Slater’s zenith, back in the early ‘00s, when he was undisputedly the best surfer to ever live, I liked watching him surf, but I never would have included Slater in a list of my top 20 favorite surfers. Laird makes my favorite coffee creamer, and is certainly my favorite motorized surfboard pitchman, but that’s about it. And I think it’s because Slater and Laird have always seemed invested in stardom. They’ve actively pursued it.

Surf culture, at least in California, has always had a pronounced neurotic streak, where surfers want to be noticed for their talent, but, at the same time, the coolest thing you can do is to look like you don’t care about being noticed. There are plenty of peacocks in our sport, and there always have been, but our most beloved icons—the surfers other surfers want to be like—are the ones who make surf stardom seem like an afterthought, like something they could just as easily do without, or something they aren’t even particularly comfortable with.

As opposed to the stars mainstream culture gravitates toward—the Slaters and Lairds of the world—hardcore surf culture values the misfits and the regular Joes and Jills over the overtly ambitious. That’s because the misfit stars seem within reach. We can, if we squint, imagine ourselves in their place. Or at least surfing with them.

When I imagine my ideal surf self—put myself in my hero’s place—it’s never been as an 11-time world champ starring in ridiculous TV shows. It’s always been the surfer quietly, anonymously, and, most importantly, humbly, ripping down the beach. Whoever they may have been.

By Justin Housman

For more information and details : https://adventure-journal.com/blogs/news/there-goes-my-hero

 

adventure surfing movies

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This is your 1-stop home cinema for the best surf movies playing online

Roll up, roll up! The internet is home to all sorts of incredible surfing movies, so let us be your box office and run you through the best ones available to watch right now.
By Chris Binns

Summary

  1. 1
    The Source
  2. 2
    For The Dream
  3. 3
    The Seawolf
  4. 4
    Skimboard Nazaré
  5. 5
    à la folie
  6. 6
    Beyond the Lines
  7. 7
    Shaping Jordy
  8. 8
    Shaka
  9. 9
    OUTDEH
  10. 10
    The Other Side Of Fear
  11. 11
    Riss
  12. 12
    And Two If By The Sea
  13. 13
    Coldwater Journal
  14. 14
    Fish
  15. 15
    Under An Arctic Sky
  16. 16
    South To Sian
  17. 17
    Generations: The Movie
  18. 18
    Paradigm Lost
  19. 19
    Chasing the Shot
  20. 20
    Let’s Be Frank
  21. 21
    Strange Rumblings in Shangri La
  22. 22
    One Shot
  23. 23
    Exploring Madagascar
Allow us to curate a playlist of a few of our favourite surf movies, playing for free online. If you like what you see, you can check out the full range of Red Bull Surfing films here.
01

The Source

33 min

The Source

Koa Smith goes on a South African surf adventure, where waves (or lack thereof) lead to profound discoveries.

English

Pro-surfer Koa Smith embarks on a South African surf adventure, where waves (or lack thereof) lead to profound discoveries of connection, nature, and introspection. The Source transcends the boundaries of a conventional surf documentary, offering a transformative journey that showcases the power of simplicity.
02

For The Dream

1 h 35 min

For the Dream

Ex-pro surfer Ben Gravy sets out on his dream to become the first person to surf in all 50 US states.

Portuguese +2

Ben Gravy, ex-pro surfer and purveyor of stoke, sets out on his dream to be the first person to surf in all 50 US states – with the Nub Nation, his girlfriend and family supporting him along the way.
03

The Seawolf

43 min

The Seawolf

Award-winning filmmaker Ben Gulliver follows seven surfers on a two-year journey in remote, freezing waters.

English +1

This roving travelogue sees award-winning filmmaker Ben Gulliver following seven surfers on a two-year journey as they take on remote and freezing waters.
04

Skimboard Nazaré

28 min

Skimboard Nazaré

Brazilian skimboard world champion Lucas Fink faces Portugal’s iconic Nazaré wave with a skimboard shape.

English +1

First, Brazil’s Lucas Fink conquered the world and won the Skimboard World Championship. Then, he decided to challenge himself and face Portugal’s iconic wave, Nazaré, with a skimboard shape. Follow his epic challenge by watching the Skimboard Nazaré film.
05

à la folie

33 min

à la folie

Strap in for the ride of your life as we follow Justine Dupont through a ground-breaking big wave season.

English +2

Strap in for the ride of your life as we follow Justine Dupont through a ground-breaking big wave season. The French surfer’s 2020 season was the most dominant performance big wave riding has ever seen. Join her for the highs and lows, the life-changing wipeouts and huge barrels in à la folie.
06

Beyond the Lines

43 min

Chapters

Travel with surf star Kanoa Igarashi for insider access to the World Championship Tour.

English +4

Providing an insider’s look at the career of one of the world’s brightest young surf stars, Beyond the Lines follows Kanoa Igarashi on his quest to win a first World Surf League Championship Tour title. Filmed by close friend, travel partner and cinematographer Tanner Carney, the hugely entertaining documentary sees Igarashi travel from Pipeline in Hawaii to Australia, Japan, Mexico and the US.
07

Shaping Jordy

48 min

Shaping Jordy

Ride along with Jordy Smith and Mikey February as they cruise the South African coast in search of waves.

English +6

For the first time in a decade South African surfer Jordy Smith spent the winter at home. He hit the road with free-surfing style master Mikey February, and Shaping Jordy is the result of all they found on the road in the Rainbow Nation.
08

Shaka

1 h 17 min

Shaka

Mathieu Crépel shifts his focus to the ocean and takes on one of the world’s biggest waves – Jaws.

English +3

Retired from pro snowboarding but still restless for adventure, Mathieu Crepel decides to take on one of the biggest challenges of his life: surfing Hawaii’s biggest wave, Jaws.
09

OUTDEH

1 h 18 min

OUTDEH

Three young Jamaican men share their stories: a rapper, a surfer and a resident of Tivoli Gardens.

English +3

OUTDEH is a documentary portraying the Youth of Jamaica: a new generation in transition, determined to get out of old and set structures in society and culture, and contribute with their fresh mindset and strength to a new understanding of the island. Three young Jamaican men share their stories. Rapper Bakersteez hopes for an international career, Shama aims to be Jamaica’s first pro surfer and Romar shows us life in his community.
10

The Other Side Of Fear

58 min

The Other Side of Fear

The inspirational tale of big wave surfer and keynote speaker Mark Mathews and his journey back from disaster.

English +6

Big wave surfer Mark Mathews has made a career out of seemingly defying fear at every opportunity, but, as his new Red Bull TV documentary The Other Side of Fear illustrates, reality isn’t quite so simple.Now a sought-after keynote speaker, Mathews has delivered fear-busting sermons to the likes of Google, Sony and MasterCard. However, with The Other Side of Fear, which injects his personal story with his fear-facing philosophies, he’s glad to finally be able to share his ideas with a much wider audience.
11

Riss

41 min

RISS

From director Peter Hamblin, follow surfer Carissa Moore around the 2019 World Surf League Championship Tour.

English

Director Peter Hamblin shadows legendary Hawaiian surfer Carissa Moore’s on the 2019 World Surf League Championship Tour season, as she faces all manner of highs and lows in her quest for an elusive fourth world title.
12

And Two If By The Sea

1 h 43 min

And Two If By Sea

Watch the iconic story of sibling rivalry between pro surfers and identical twins CJ and Damien Hobgood.

English +3

CJ and Damien Hobgood are identical twins whose sibling rivalry and struggle to establish their own identity fuelled their careers. After more than a decade of competing at the highest level, this documentary uncovers the real goings-on behind the scenes in the lives of two of surfing’s favourite Floridian sons.
13

Coldwater Journal

43 min

Coldwater Journal

Follow surfer and filmmaker Ben Weiland on his decade-long journey to explore the world’s coastlines.

Portuguese +6

Follow surfer and filmmaker Ben Weiland on his decade-long journey to explore the most desolate and beautiful coastlines on the planet. Weiland is always on the search for perfect waves and adventure no matter how frozen the landscapes he finds himself.
14

Fish

1 h 22 min

Fish

Discover the origins of fish surfboards and meet some of the pioneers who changed surfing culture forever.

English +7

The fish surfboard has had a huge impact on surf culture. Learn about the origins of the surfboard’s innovative speed and style-focused design, and hear from pioneers like Steve Lis and Skip Frye, who transformed the sport of surfing with their enormously popular designs.
15

Under An Arctic Sky

40 min

Under an Arctic Sky

A group of surfers, along with photographer Chris Burkard, journey to Iceland in search of perfect waves.

English +2

Legendary photographer Chris Burkard journeys to Iceland’s north coast with a pack of incredible surfers in search of perfect waves, during the country’s largest storm in 25 years. Results, as you’d imagine, are spectacular.
16

South To Sian

2 min

South to Sian

What began as a three-month surf trip off the beaten track turned into a two-year odyssey of exploration.

On boards and motorbikes, by boat and four-wheel drive, Harrison Roach and Zye Norris’s journey is to discover if, in these days of GPS and WiFi, the dream of a pioneering surf adventure is still possible. On their 4,000km trek across the Indonesian archipelago, the lads got as close to achieving their goals as possible in this day and age, and South To Sian is the must-see result of their endeavours.
17

Generations: The Movie

38 min

Generations: The Movie

Join generations of pro surfers as they give an ode to the old days while looking to the future.

English +2

Join generations of pro surfers on a journey around the world. The latest instalment in Quiksilver’s surf movie series has a simple but powerful effect that’ll make you want to drop everything and go for a surf.
18

Paradigm Lost

1 h

Paradigm Lost

Featuring Waterman Kai Lenny

Portuguese +3

Step into the life of the world’s most complete waterman, Kai Lenny. From kiteboarding, windsurfing, stand-up paddleboarding, big wave surfing, if it involves being on saltwater, Kai does it and he does it well.
19

Chasing the Shot

23 min

Chasing The Shot – Leroy Bellet

Come join Leroy Bellet on the hunt for the photo of a lifetime, from his home waters on Australia’s South Coast to the notorious Teahupo’o in Tahiti

English +1

Follow photographer Leroy Bellet as he lays his body on the line trying to film the world’s best tube riders taming some of the world’s most dangerous waves. Starring some of the most epic surf footage ever captured, this Chasing The Shot special is the epitome of risk versus reward.
20

Let’s Be Frank

50 min

Let’s Be Frank

Who is Frank Solomon? A man? A myth? The two might just be inseparable.

Who is the enigmatic Frank Solomon? Is he a humble, kind-hearted and thoughtful big wave surfer? Or is he something much more, a hard-living bad boy? The man and the myth might just be inseparable. Hit play now on one of the quirkiest and coolest surf movies you’ll see in a long, long time.
21

Strange Rumblings in Shangri La

52 min

Strange Rumblings in Shangri La

A Worldwide Surf Expedition

English

Joe G is surfing’s Wes Anderson and Strange Rumblings is the best of his sublime body of work. From the frigid shores of Iceland to the sultry coastline of Mozambique; well-known spots in Europe to exotic islands in Brazil; and from the depths of Indonesia and beyond, this film documents an unforgettable worldwide surfari.
22

One Shot

Swim out at some of surfing’s heaviest waves with Russell Ord – a world-renowned surf photographer who’s as crazy as the surfers he shoots – as he embarks on a mission to capture the shot he hopes will define his life’s work.
23

Exploring Madagascar

26 min

Exploring Madagascar

Slade Prestwich, Frank Solomon and Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker embark on an epic surf adventure to Madagascar.

The Shorties | Watch The Best (Short) Surf Films Of The Year And Help LS / FF Pick A Winner

The Shorties | Watch The Best (Short) Surf Films Of The Year And Help LS / FF Pick A Winner

Surfdome are teaming up with London Surf / Film Festival to celebrate the best short films about surfing

Do you like surfing? What about sitting around in your lounge pants (aka your ‘comfies’) while watching short films about surfing, you like that too? If you answered yes on both counts here, you’re in luck. You’re in luck because our friends at Surfdome have teamed up with London Surf / Film Festival for ‘The Shorties’ – a competition celebrating the best surf shorts of the year.

CLICK HERE TO VOTE IN ‘THE SHORTIES’

There’s films that get to the heart of surf culture, films with surfers saying profound things about waves and stuff, films with surfers riding barrels and getting all spiritual off the back of it, films with surfers having a merry old time within the boundaries of a viewing time that caters nicely to the shrinking attention spans of the modern man. Tick, tick, tick and tick again compadre. Watch them below.

Between the 2nd and 4th of December 2021, the iconic Genesis Cinema in East London will be hosting the festival’s 10th edition. For more information about the event, or to find out more about the films set to feature, pay a visit to the London Surf / Film Festival website.

Window

Land Surrounded By Sea

See Saw

Here, You Are Welcome

Forest To Ocean

Translate

The Single Fin Shootout

Grateful

Medicine For The Mundane

Step Into The Black

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MORE = https://mpora.com/surfing/best-short-films-about-surfing-the-shorties-2021/

50 short surf films you must watch

Short surf films: watch our carefully curated list of 50 movies | Photo: Cottonbro/Creative Commons

With summer heralding a warm embrace and the beaches beckoning all and sundry, the siren song of the surf is nearly impossible to resist.

For those who would rather spectate than participate (or simply can’t find a wetsuit that accommodates a decidedly British sense of fashion), a world of cinematic treasures awaits.

A celebration of wave-riding escapades, short surf films offer a delightful paddle into a vast ocean of human drama, athletic prowess, and salt-sprayed adventure.

From the shimmering shores of Hawaii to the rugged coastlines of Cornwall, these films bring us face-to-face with nature’s might, where surfers dance and dart across furious waves, not unlike an Englishman trying to navigate a sun-soaked beach with a piping hot cup of tea in hand.

While the waves themselves are the stars, it’s the surfers, filmmakers, and the unending quest for the perfect ride that bring these short films to life.

So grab your board, perhaps a more agreeable armchair, and prepare to dive into a selection of 50 short surf films that aren’t merely a footnote in cinema but a thrilling narrative of humanity’s romance with the sea.

You don’t have to be a surf enthusiast to be carried away by the tide; these films have something for everyone.

And the best part? You won’t even have to get your feet wet. Alternatively, spare some time to check our list of favorite feature films about surfing.

Fear not, dear reader, you won’t find any mention here of “riding the wave of life” or other such clichés.

Instead, buckle up for a genuine ride through the cinematic surf, where every wave is a story, and every splash is a melody. Hmmm… Were these last two metaphors clichés?

Just mind the undertow; it has a cheeky habit of sneaking up on you.

Kook Paradise

“Kook Paradise” is one part social commentary, one part comedy, and one heaping spoonful of reality.

“Kook Paradise” is filmed on location at Ditch Plains Beach, highlighting the surf culture in and out of the water.

It is shot in the style of the surfing films from the 1960s, bringing levity and humor to that which surrounds surfing’s current popularity in NY in particular.

“Kook Paradise” is a place where all your surfing fantasies become reality. Everyone is welcome in “Kook Paradise.” And remember – it’s all a dream.

Directed by Danny Dimauro and Tin Ojeda.

 

Tarp Pits

Made in April 2010 for Korduroy TV, this short follows tarp surfing pioneers Dodge Weirath and Wyatt Brady as they explain how they created tarp surfing.

Watch how two young surfers set up their 50-foot tarp on the street.

Filmed and Edited by Cyrus Sutton. Music by the Blank Tapes.

 

The Dill & Beeg Project

Dillon Perillo and Brendon Gibbens spent 365 days traveling around the world.

Their goal was to score great waves, have fun, and get a good film of their journey.

The result is “The Dill & Beeg Project.” The duo visited Reunion Island, P-Pass, California, Portugal, Western Australia, and Sumbawa.

 

Blue Sway

Paul McCartney recruited award-winning surf filmmaker Jack McCoy to create a music video for his previously unreleased track “Blue Sway.”

Written nearly 20 years ago, McCartney’s never-before-released song, “Blue Sway,” is available for the first time on the bonus audio disc of the special edition of McCartney II.

The music video created by McCoy is also featured on the bonus DVD included in the set.

Jack McCoy has been capturing the surfing vision in a truly unique way.

Using a high-powered underwater jet ski, the filmmaker found that he was able to travel behind a wave, creating underwater images that have never been seen before.

McCoy spent the next six weeks creating the music video while also working full days on making “A Deeper Shade of Blue.”

McCoy compiled and edited footage that he filmed off Tahiti’s Teahupoo reef to create what became the “Blue Sway” video.

 

A Brief History: Terry Martin

Terry Martin’s first encounters with surfing, shaping, and crashing motorcycles.

“Terry Martin is probably the best shaper to ever live. Considering he has hand shaped over 80,000 boards in his lifetime for people such as Gerry Lopez, Phil Edwards, Shawn Stussy, Hobie, Dale Velzy, Stewart, and many more”.

“Terry saw the evolution of the surfboard firsthand through the shaping bay from wood to light foam. He could make anything, and it would work, whether it was a modern shortboard or noserider. He understood water flow and what a surfboard needs to do – to make a surfer have fun.”

“He was the Santa Claus of shaping, joyfully hand-making all his toys for his children. Terry, you will be missed by many.”

Directed by Tyler Manson.

 

Fathoms Left To Fall

A short surf film of one epic day of huge surf during March 2012 at Mullaghmore Head, County Sligo.

The yin and yang of a trip. The highs and the lows. The epic rides and the epic falls. Surfing isn’t an easy game to get right. Once in a lifetime, 50-foot faces followed by an endless search for shelter.

Tides reveal dry reefs; squalls break promises. Rain dampens enthusiasm, talk of hidden secrets abound, but the wind in its infinite wisdom keeps them just that, secret.

There’s no urgency; yesterday’s euphoria still burns. Another trip, another day. No fathoms left to fall.

Starring Gabe Davies, Richie Fitzgerald, Fergal Smith, Tom Lowe, Ollie O’Flaherty, Eric Rebiere, Paul O’Kane, Neil Britton, Tom Butler, Sebastian Steudtner, Andrew Cotton, and Al Mennie.

A Northcore film. Directed by Chris McClean.

 

Invasion! From Planet C

They’re coming to take your waves! They’re coming to take your women!

“Invasion! From Planet C” is a full-length surfing movie with a science fiction plot.

Shot in New Zealand, Costa Rica, Australia, and California, it stars Mike Black as Gnar Gnar and Matteo Plummer as Casanova.

The movie is directed by David M. Potter and marks Mike and David’s third feature film collaboration.

Music for the movie was made by Dark Dark Mask, Defenders of the Universe, Loafer, SSNNDDRR, Nick Stellino, Christopher Jones, and The White Buffalo.

Guest surfing appearances by Dan Klemann and Ty Williams.

 

Ocean Monk

“Ocean Monk” chronicles the inner and outer search of a group of monks who make their home in New York City.

Students of the late Indian teacher Sri Chinmoy, who lived in Queens for over 40 years, this band of friends discovered the beauty and power of the nearby surfing beaches and incorporated their love for the ocean into their search for enlightenment.

“Ocean Monk” explores the ideals which drive their life as well as the pounding winter surf which sustains them.

The film includes appearances by Kelly Slater, Jack Johnson, Titus Kinimaka, and Sri Chinmoy.

Music featured in the film is by Sigur Ros, Wixel, Parichayaka Hammerl, and Mark Swiderski.

 

Another Day in the Life of Wayne Lynch

Wayne Lynch is a surfing legend, blazing individualistic pathways in both the performance and the lifestyle.

Ascending during a time of great change and experimentation, Wayne took up the mantle personally, redefining what a surfboard should look like and how it should be ridden.

Much of this innovation is done outside of surfing’s athletic or institutional complexes.

Today, Wayne’s life is almost as it was 40 years ago. He still shapes surfboards and still lives simply by the sea.

Were it not for his recent heart attack, both the observer and Wayne himself could be forgiven for thinking things had stayed the same, despite how they had changed.

But serious jeopardy to anyone’s health, our surfing heroes included, can have a way of radically altering everything underneath the surface, appearances be damned. A rebirth into the same skin.

In this two-part portrait, filmmaker Cyrus Sutton provides a window into Lynch’s new life. With a nod to Jack McCoy’s “Tubular Swells,” “Another Day in the Life” is crafted with ultra-fine cinematography and a spare and modernist feel.

The viewer is transported back to the Wayne Lynch they grew up idolizing while making current those admirations and anchoring them in the reality of human mortality.

 

30 Days Without Surfing

“30 Days Without Surfing” is Driftwood Collective’s attempt to create a short film about crafting, love, and the Absolute.

It portrays all the time spent in between swells when you start questioning yourself and how creativity is ever linked with making the most of what you got.

By Driftwood Collective and with the Driftwood Collective crew.

 

The Shaper

The story of a crazy surfboard shaper and surfer known for his talent and vision when in the shaping bay.

“The Shaper” is an inspiring story of how to design surfboards that don’t quite meet the surfer’s needs.

Directed by Jeremy Joyce, Rich Pearn, and Rob Lockyear. Cinematography by Jeremy Joyce, Rich Pearn, and Rob Lockyear.

Featuring James Hogg.

 

Follow the Sun

Reef and Xavier Rudd collaborate to bring you a tribute to International Surfing Day titled “Follow the Sun,” where the surf community stops and pays respect to our Mother Ocean through surf culture participation and ocean preservation.

Reef invites you to join in the fun and start surfing and loving our oceans today.

 

All Points South

Surfers are a litmus test of the health of our oceans.

This new film by Save The Waves Coalition, “All Points South,” relates how surfers and fishermen in Chile fight against rampant pollution from the pulp industry and how consumers can help by making better choices when buying paper.

With world-class surfing at some of the planet’s best point breaks, this is the story of a group of surfers and their effort to expose the injustice being done by a powerful, worldwide industry.

Featured surfers: Ramon Navarro, Keith Malloy, Timmy Turner, Joao de Macedo, León Vicuña, Nano Zegers, Edgar Nozes, Brett Schwartz.

Directed by Sachi Cunningham.

 

Andy Irons – I Surf Because

Andy Irons is one of the world’s greatest-ever surfers.

He is a three-time world champion made famous by his epic battles with Kelly Slater.

But outside all the victories, Andy’s life started to take a turn, and his fire was starting to go out. He left the sport in search of himself and took it all back to basics.

“I surf because… it keeps my life at an even keel. Without it, I would tip into oblivion.”

 

The Surf Magazines Don’t Talk About Lapsed Catholics

“The Surf Magazines Don’t Talk About Lapsed Catholics” is a surf film about an endless search, perhaps more universal but less embraced.

A short surf film about the silent majority.

As the popularity of surfing as a pastime increases, merging with mainstream media to become ever more accessible to the public, a small but crucial element is often overlooked.

An insightful, original, thought-provoking story that all surfers will relate to.

Directed by Todd Stewart.

 

Away

Three different women are united by surfing.

“Away” is a short documentary film that looks at the subculture of New York City surfing through the lens of these women, divulging the highs and lows of riding waves at Rockaway Beach, Queens.

With Katrina Del Mar, Jee Mee Kim, Mary Leonard.

Directed by Elisa Bates.

 

Surf Noir

The first short surf film to feature a sonorous tribute to Mozart’s “Große Messe.”

This avant-garde surf short illustrates the fluidity, grace, and humor of the surfing experience.

Directed by Suyen Mosley.

 

Ice Board

“Ice Board,” conceptualized and directed by Conn Bertish, is a short film that tells the story of Conn Bertish’s remarkable visual art creation, the Ice Board.

Bertish, a Capetonian surfer, activist, and creative director, came up with the innovative idea to highlight the plight of our oceans by shaping a life-sized surfboard sculpted entirely from ice.

The board of ice is a simple metaphor for what is happening right now to all the world’s glaciers and ice caps.

As this board melts, so do our glaciers and million-year-old ice caps. So we each need to take stock of how our actions are affecting the increase in global warming.

The board is a simple graphic reminder of this.

The “Ice Board” was displayed at Depasco Café in Kloof Street, Cape Town, on Wednesday, December 9, 2009.

The melting board served as a visual poem, underlining the global warming crisis in a powerful way.

 

La Ruta Norte

“La Ruta Norte” is a short surf film by Spanish pro surfer Kepa Acero.

Prepare for a journey of 979 kilometers, shooting, surfing, and meeting people.

Photographer Iker Basterretxea “Roke” and the surfer Kepa Acero, hand to hand. By bike, with a surfboard and cameras.

Wishing they will meet many waves, many people.

 

Cactus Wagon

When “Big Wednesday” went south, so did its star, Jan-Michael Vincent. He hauled the film’s screenwriter, Denny Aaberg, with him. Turns out Denny had a Super-8 Camera.

Across the border and into the hills they went. To the ag towns and bracero buses of the Valle de San Quintin. Through the sage-to-Sonoran transition zone of Rosario de Arriba.

Past the charismatic mega flora of the Valle de los Cirios. Onward through the featureless Vizcaino. And finally – finally! – to San Juanicio, Rattlesnake Point, Punta Pequena, and Scorpion Bay.

In this short film excerpted from the e-book “Big Wednesday Redux,” you’ll see Scorpion one year after the trans-peninsula highway was opened.

No streets, no services, no Gringo Hill. Hardscrabble, empty, and perfect. Aaberg and Vincent surfed, drank, and licked their wounds.

As the film’s Matt Barlow, Jan-Michael, said, “I surf just ’cause it’s good to ride with your friends.”

Here’s Jan – and Denny – doing just that.

 

Madera

Short surf documentary that shows the process of building an empty wooden surfboard.

With this board-building method by Tom Blake, they were made about 20 kilograms lighter than those of the 1920s, which were solid and heavier.

Waste wood from yards and streets garbage containers is reused to create this surfboard, working with fretsaw, sandpaper, and plane only.

Directed by Kepa Alvarez Ruiz.

 

Drawing Lines

“Drawing Lines” is a movie about Ryan Hammers and Paul Gerrety.

They’ve just graduated college and are looking forward to one more surf trip before moving on with their careers.

Their goal is to surf every state on the east coast, from the warm, sandy beaches of Florida to the cold, rocky coastline of Maine.

Being from Florida, the guys knew that Hurricane Season would be their best chance to catch good waves.

It was late summer and nearing the peak of hurricane season, and the guys were ready to get on the road.

 

Evening Africa

Shot in a 16 mm film by Dustin Miller, this short depicts an evening session at Jeffery’s Bay in South Africa with WCT professionals like Kelly Slater and Damien Hobgood.

Couple of beautiful evenings with waves shredded by Jimmy Slades and Cliff.

 

Modernist Basque Surfing

“Modernist Basque Surfing” is a mixture of the Basque roots and surfing in Biarritz.

Directed by Iker Treviño and Xabier Zirikiain.

They were influenced by underground European filmmakers like Sergei Parajanov or Jean-Luc Godard.

 

Dark Side of the Lens

“Darkside of the Lens” offers a surreal, ethereal, passionate, and personal glimpse into the life and motivations of an ocean-based photographer – working on a magical yet isolated, frozen, and dangerous stretch of the Irish coastline.

Indeed, the film itself becomes a visual poem of sorts, set in a mind-blowing environment of epic heavy waves, strange sea life, and monolithic stunning cliff lines.

Land, sea, and wavescapes illustrate the grandeur of this environment, and huge explosions of water bring their realities home as the photographer swims through the epicenter of it all.

Directed by Mickey Smith.

 

Abroad

Filmmaker John Lynch, known for capturing powerful surf footage around the globe, digs deeper into this film to explore how standard tourism can transcend into life-altering experiences.

Shot single-handedly by Lynch over the course of a several-week stint in Indonesia, the film chronicles the evolution of his journey.

Surfing by Kimbo, Lucas Vasquez , Jaime OʼBrien, John Florence and Pat Gudauskas.

John Lynch IV picked up a camera at age ten and never looked back. A dedicated surfer and ardent traveler, Lynch finds inspiration in the cultures and music he encounters around the globe.

He was raised on a small barrier island on the Atlantic coast of Florida, where his lifelong love affair with the ocean took root. Lynch currently lives in Los Angeles, a city he values for its rich diversity and cinematic history.

 

Uncommon Ideals.

For most people, the North Sea is a source of food, a source of fuel – oil and gas, a playground for catching waves, or simply a mass of water that needs to be navigated.

Few are aware that these cold grey waters cover a prehistoric landscape that once joined England to Europe.

Yet between 18,000 and 5,500 BC, global warming raised sea levels to the extent that this area known as Doggerland was engulfed by water, and the area that had been home to mankind disappeared.

This entire land sank beneath the North Sea. Is it this former land that we North Sea surfers now surf? We are the Doggerland groms, heavies, hippies, and kooks.

A film by Chris McClean and Mark Waters.

Surfers include Gabe Davies, Pete Eyre, John John Florence, Nathan Florence, Dylan Graves, Chris “Guts” Griffiths, Ritchie Sills, and Balaram Stack.

 

Runman’s Groms

Straight out of the Pacific, “Runman’s Groms” is an eight-minute short surf movie about “Lil Ray,” the grom, other groms, and adults that act like groms.

Includes Titus Kinimaka, Andy and Bruce Irons, Dustin Barca, Koa Smith, Alana Blanchard, Bethany Hamilton, and more.

 

Cypher Vision

See Dane Reynolds, Julian Wilson, Jeremy Flores, and Kelly Slater in Quiksilver’s “Cypher Vision – A Short Film.”

Shot at 1,000 frames a second with a revolutionary camera that had never been used to shoot surfing or film in the ocean, you will trip out on the amazing high-definition footage and super slo-mo sequences of the world’s best surfers.

See every drop of spray, their boards flexing when they land big airs, their body contortions, and the unique lines they draw on every wave.

It’s high-performance surfing as never seen before.

 

Protect Our Waves

Surfers Against Sewage, in association with the Quiksilver Foundation and the EOG Association for Conservation, present a Richard Stewart production, “Protect Our Waves.”

An inspirational guide to some of the UK’s premiere waves, highlighting the environmental threats facing our coastline today.

Beautiful waves surfed by some of the best surfers in the world fused perfectly with stylish animations outlining how surfers can make a stand against the increasing pollution pressures impacting Britain’s surf spots.

Featuring Sam Bleakley, Gabe Davies, Toby Donachie, Trev Garland, Jack Johns, Candice O’Donnell, Nathan Phillips and Jayce Robinson, and Richie Sills.

This film was shot entirely in the UK.

Directed by Richard Stewart.

 

Monsterboards

A film about Eef, a surfer in Holland who makes and rides wooden surfboards with painted monsters on them in the freezing and junky surf of his home.

Eef shot everything and FTP’d the footage up to the director’s server.

The video editor cut the images, and Garrett Koeppicus, a young animator, gave new life to Eef’s drawings.

Directed by Matthew McGregor-Mento.

 

Stacked

When the Quiksilver Pro surf competition makes an unprecedented stop in the small town of Long Beach, New York, 20-year-old local surfer Balaram Stack must represent his hometown by competing against Kelly Slater and the world’s best surfers in the biggest contest in the history of professional surfing.

Directed by Patrick Cummings and E.J. McLeavey-Fisher.

 

Sincerely Suburbia

“Sincerely Suburbia” is the final salute to a film and a moment we’re rather fond of.

Shot around the globe in 2012, this film was pulled off the cutting room floor for “Dear Suburbia,” Kai Neville’s award-winning surf film.

“Sincerely Suburbia” stars Dane Reynolds, Kolohe Andino, Conner Coffin, Jay Davies, and Mitch Coleborn, with cameos by Kelly Slater, Taj Burrow, and Cory Lopez.

The release of “Sincerely Suburbia” marks the beginning of the most exciting part: hitting the road and starting all over again.

 

Takk – An Icelandic Surf Film

Iceland is not a classic surfing destination, but Chris Hannant made the Nordic country look exotic.

“Takk” is the result of a surf trip to a place where daylight hours are extreme.

The short surf movie portrays some of the best breaks Iceland has to offer.

 

Salmon Theory

A glimpse of the New Hampshire winter surfing experience.

Winter is prime time for New Hampshire surfing; nor’easters bring feet of snow and solid swell to our sheltered coast.

Surfers had to wait until March 1 for a solid storm to blanket the coast and deliver waves.

Starring Casey Lockwood, Shawn MacDonald, Stevie O’Hara, and others.

Directed and produced by Dylan Ladds and Ryan Scura.

 

Friction Free Finless – Surfing the Reef

Finless surfing exponent Derek Hynd, young gun Californian Ryan Burch and female free surfer Taylor Miller take on a West Australian desert Reef on finless boards.

Accompanied by the Australian Chamber Orchestra, singer/songwriter Steve Pigram and didgeridoo virtuoso Mark Atkins composing inspirational music, this is a short document of that journey.

The desert red landscape, cobalt blue skies, and perfect offshore waves make this compelling viewing.

 

Epic: A Savage Journey

“Epic: A Savage Journey” is a loaded gun with its crosshairs on the ugly side of surfing.

Blustering locals, embittered soul surfers, and homophobic professionals all fall victim to their own delusions.

Follow three different surfers as they babble their way into corners of hypocrisy and self-loathing, peeling away layers of misconception and phony facades like a rotten onion until there’s nothing left but a rancid surfer.

Only in this case, you’ll be laughing instead of crying, unless, of course, you’re the kind of surfer “Epic” portrays, then you’ll be crying.

 

We Are All Radioactive

“We Are All Radioactive” is an episodic documentary film that tells the story of a community of young surfers who are helping to rebuild a small coastal town destroyed by the tsunami in Japan in March 2011.

“We Are All Radioactive” was created by San Francisco-based Japanese journalist Lisa Katayama and TEDTalks creator Jason Wishnow.

Half the footage is shot by them, and the other half is shot by the locals themselves.

Post-production of the first four episodes was entirely crowdfunded, with over 200 supporters from all over the world.

 

Kooks

“Kooks” explores the question: when does aggro become too aggro and examines the threat of localism beyond the line-up?

Two shitty surfers bring the localism they learned at the beach back to their neighborhood.

Directed by Peter Cestaro.

Starring Pete Cestaro, Joe Praino, Rachel Feldman, Paul Cotton, Matt Ginella, and John “Kid” O’Keefe.

 

Lunchbreak

“Lunchbreak” is a short surfing film that combines high-performance surfing action with a cheeky twist on a North Shore legend.

A group of male surfers is out surfing when the local “gang” comes and calls “lunch break,” kicking them out of the water.

The “gang’s” session doesn’t last long, though; a group of groms is hot on their tales, determined to teach them a lesson.

Starring Serena Brooke, Ellie-Jean Coffey, Laura Enever, Codie Klein, Felicity Palmateer, Tyler Wright, Kirby Wright, Dru Adler, Cahill Bell Warren, Jason Jameson, Noah Lane, Brent Savage, Ty Watson, Kai Hing, and Alyssa Lock.

Produced and Directed by Clare Plueckhahn and Fran Derham.

 

Killing Waves

Carlos Carneiro created a short documentary about an inspiring group that makes a difference in the community.

“Killing Waves” is a 6-minute documentary following the story of Surfers Against Sewage (SAS), an environmental organization seeking to preserve our beaches and campaign against water pollution.

The film follows those involved with the charity, their passion for surfing, and the campaign for a better coastal environment.

Directed and produced by Carlos Carneiro. Image by Bruno Ramos. Editing by Mitchell Tolliday. Sound design by Christian Curtis, and music by Erin Garcia.

 

Sea Fever

“Sea Fever” captures the iconic images of surfing in the United Kingdom and Ireland.

Feel the power of the Atlantic Ocean.

The film was directed by Tim Davies and features a poem by John Masefield.

Music by Massive Attack.

 

The Art of Surfing

“The Art of Surfing” is a surf film by Karl Nesseler and Caspar Schaede.

The short was entirely shot, in February and March 2012, at the North Shore, Cotillo, and Los Lobos, in Fuerteventura.

Music by Asa.

 

Be

The short surf film “Be” tells the story of a young girl and her dream of becoming a professional surfer.

“Be” celebrates hope, determination, and pursuing one’s dreams.

Portuguese surfer Joana Rocha is the star of the short surf film.

Written by Robert Dume. Directed by Creative Artistic.

 

Cooperative Sailor People

“Cooperative Sailor People” is all about Daytona Beach’s weirdness and night surfing.

Directed by Trey Edwards. Art by Ty Williams. Starring Chad Doyle.

 

Getaway

“Getaway” is a short surf film by Joey Gallagher, shot with (or in the style of) 8 mm and featuring some surfboarding and skateboarding in New York, California, and Hawaii.

Original music by Calvin LeCompte (of Tough Knuckles) and other songs by Ducktails and Julian Lynch.

 

UPcycling

“UPcycling” is a short film about transforming an old longboard into a brand new board.

By showing the beauty of this process, it also suggests new views on how enriching using renewed equipment could be.

Besides, it is a film on how people and places get connected through the joy of an upcycled resulting board.

And, of course, it is about transformed habits and routines and new views on old things, all through the activity of craftsmen involved in the amazing process of shaping a surfboard.

Directed by Henrique “Ogro” Perrone.

 

So It Goes

Billabong surfer Felicity Palmateer is 19 years old and ranked number 19 in the World Qualifying Series.

Her Dad noticed her determination to surf at the age of four. Her passion hasn’t faded.

Like any professional sportsperson, she is constantly trying to keep her competitive edge – juggling constant travel for contests, training, and representing a brand – all in the media spotlight. It’s not easy.

“So It Goes” explores these pressures through Felicity’s thoughts and gives viewers a little insight into the mind of an elite athlete, what they have to deal with, and how they manage to keep on keeping on.

Starring Felicity Palmateer and Warrick Palmateer.

Produced and Directed by Clare PLueckhahn and Fran Derham.

 

Ola Libre

A film by Mike Gibbons and Patrick Rynne aimed at exploring and supporting the emerging surf culture of Cuba.

The non-profit organization Royal 70 works to create opportunities for Cuba’s youth through extreme sports, music, and art.

Music by Conner Youngblood. Shot entirely with a portable waterproof action camera.

 

Nti Sheeto

“Nti Sheeto” is a surf film illustrating the contrast between the psychedelic and magical natural wonders of Indonesia with the surreal and demented trappings of its darker nighttime street culture.

We love Indonesia for all that it is, and this is Dion Agius’ film opus to the region.

Starring Ozzie Wright, Dion Agius, Creed McTaggart, Thom Pringle, and Warren Smith.

 

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