This Remote National Park Ski Area is Well Worth The Trek

I owe an apology to the town of Jasper and especially to the Marmot Basin ski area for sharing these words. Part of Jasper’s charm lies in its untouched natural beauty, a result of fewer crowds and less media attention from writers like me.

Discovering the Hidden Gem of Jasper National Park

You’ve likely heard of Banff National Park, home to the renowned Ski Big 3 resorts: Lake Louise, Banff Sunshine, and Norquay. Jasper, however, is the quieter, wilder, and far less touristy sibling. Both parks are situated in Western Alberta, sharing the Canadian segment of the Rocky Mountains. Having skied in both areas, I found significant differences that make Marmot Basin a trip worth taking.

The Adventure of Getting to Jasper

Jasper National Park’s remoteness ensures fewer crowds and an unmatched nature experience. It requires a dedicated adventurer to make the journey, but those who do are richly rewarded. The trek itself is quite the adventure.

Starting my journey in New York City, I took two flights with a brief layover in Toronto before landing at Edmonton International Airport in the early afternoon. After what felt like a full day of travel, I energized myself with Tim Horton’s coffee for the second leg: a four-hour drive from the city to the mountains.

Timing Your Visit

I visited Jasper in mid-March, an ideal time for skiing. Situated at the very edge of Mountain Daylight Time, Jasper enjoys sunsets around 8 p.m., perfect for skiing and having ample daylight left for après-ski activities or even an evening hike.

The Marmot Basin Experience

One of the main advantages of skiing at Marmot Basin is the lack of crowds. Even on its busiest days, Brian Rode, Vice President of Marmot Basin, assures that you might only wait two or three minutes at the base area. While the mountain attracts weekend warriors from Edmonton, most skiers are Jasper locals, keeping the resort peaceful and welcoming to visitors.

Advanced Terrain and Family-Friendly Atmosphere

Despite being more of a local hill than a major destination, Marmot Basin offers impressive skiing. This winter, the new Knob Quad lift takes skiers higher than its predecessor, reaching an elevation of 8,261 feet, the highest point on the mountain. This lift provides access to The Cirque, the mountain’s expert and underrated bowl terrain.

The Cirque features some of the best in-bounds terrain I’ve ever skied. From the top of the Knob Quad, there’s a half-mile ridge to Marmot 2 peak, allowing skiers to drop in at any point and carve out numerous paths with minimal crowds. On the other side of the Knob Quad, two more peaks unfold into fluffy white bowls, perfect for steep and challenging back bowls.

Despite Marmot Basin’s vertical power, it remains exceptionally family-friendly. Even from the top of the Knob chair, there’s a solid blue groomer, and every lift has at least one green run, accommodating skiers of all abilities.

The Heart and Soul of Marmot Basin

Marmot Basin is not just a hidden gem; it’s nestled in the heart of Jasper National Park, offering breathtaking 360-degree views of jagged peaks. On clear days, you can see every railcar chugging through Jasper and beyond, making it a paradise for photographers and Instagrammers.

However, the best part of skiing at Marmot Basin isn’t the terrain, the views, or even the surprisingly delicious food at the Caribou Bar and Grill. It’s the people. You earn your turns at Marmot just by getting there. Everyone on the slopes genuinely wants to be there, evident in everyone from the rental shop staff to the ski school instructors, like George Andrew, who has been skiing the area for over 60 years. The Andrew family has been in Jasper for decades, and if you’re lucky, you might find yourself in one of their local establishments like Papa George’s Restaurant. Marmot Basin is a truly special place that every dedicated skier should visit—just don’t tell them I sent you.

Exploring Jasper

Where to Stay

Jasper is much quieter and less tourist-centric than nearby Banff. Marmot Basin doesn’t offer accommodations, so plan to stay about 20 minutes away in Jasper.

Pyramid Lake Lodge

Jasper has about a third of the hotel rooms compared to Banff, so book early. For an immersive outdoor experience, consider Pyramid Lake Lodge, located on the shore of Pyramid Lake. In winter, the lodge offers ice skate rentals, fat bikes, and snowshoes for guests. The lodge combines rustic charm with luxury, and a visit to Pyramid Lake is a must, no matter the season.

Where to Après

Most of Marmot Basin closes around 4:30 p.m., so head back to town for an après-ski beverage. The Jasper Brewing Company offers a variety of local and international brews, and the food is excellent, including gluten-free options. For pizza, Jasper Pizza Place has something for everyone, including an everything-bagel-style pizza that you simply must try.

Where to Eat

Ski town resort food is often fine but unremarkable. However, Jasper breaks this mold. At Evil Dave’s, you’ll enjoy quirky dish names and a menu featuring homemade curries and impressive cocktails.

The newly renovated restaurant at Pyramid Lake Lodge, Aalto, serves high-quality “lake food” using local ingredients. Breakfast is à la carte, and dinner is prix fixe. After a day on the slopes, warm up with their unique split pea soup, which comes out turmeric orange with burnt sesame seeds on top.

For a guided culinary experience, book a food tour. It might feel touristy, but you’ll sample four different restaurants, learn about Jasper and its surroundings, and make new friends.

What to Do

Skiing is the main attraction at Marmot Basin, with lift tickets starting at around $94 and discounted family tickets for $229. They’re also part of the Mountain Collective pass. While you’re in the national park, don’t miss the chance to explore beyond Jasper and the ski hill. Drive along the Ice Fields Parkway, stopping at various scenic outcroppings. The Athabasca Falls and Goats and Glaciers Lookout are particularly stunning in winter and less than an hour’s drive from Jasper.

For an adventurous twist, take a guided tour with SunDog Tours into the park’s deepest ice canyon. The tour includes all necessary equipment, providing a safe and thrilling experience.

Source: https://www.skimag.com/adventure/ski-jasper-national-park/

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