Nine Miles of Climbing Determination: Conquering Arizona’s 9 Mile Cigarette
In the rugged terrain of Insomnia Canyon, Arizona, climbers find some of the most demanding trad routes in the United States. One such route is the 5.13- five-pitch climb known as 9 Mile Cigarette. Named after a lyric from John Prine’s song “When I Get to Heaven,” this route was first ascended by Joel Unema and has recently seen a repeat by Forest Altherr.
Unema’s initial ascent of 9 Mile Cigarette was documented on his blog, Grass Routes Climbing. He described the first three pitches, which are graded at 5.12, 5.11, and 5.12, as offering varied climbing on cracks of all sizes, often with supportive feet and face holds. These pitches are nestled in a shady gully, staying cool even during the summer.
Unema’s journey continued with Zach Harrison, but it was with Wilson Cutbirth that he tackled the route’s most challenging sections. The fourth pitch, rated 5.13, is the crux of the climb, followed by a final, slightly sandy but still strenuous, 5.12 pitch. Unema successfully led both these pitches under crisp conditions, completing the ascent.
Now featured in a new short film, 9 Mile Cigarette remains a testament to the evolving challenges and triumphs of trad climbing in Arizona.
Learn more: https://www.adventurefilm.academy/
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