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K2: The Savage Mountain

K2 (8,611m / 28,251ft) stands as the world’s second highest mountain, after Everest (8,848.9m), and is traditionally considered the most difficult of the world’s 14 8,000-meter peaks. Known as The Savage Mountain since 1953, American climber and physicist George Bell famously remarked, “It’s a savage mountain that tries to kill you,” after a harrowing near-death experience on its slopes.

Historically, K2’s fatality rate has honored this moniker, standing above 20%, making it one of the most perilous high-altitude mountaineering objectives in the world. Only Annapurna I (8,091m) with a death rate above 30%, and Nanga Parbat (8,126m) with a fatality ratio around 21%, are comparable in terms of risk.

Recent Trends on K2

Despite its notorious reputation, K2 has seen a surge in commercially guided expeditions. Until 2021, only 377 climbers had summited K2, with the one-year record being 62 summits in 2018. However, 2022 marked a significant shift, with 200 people summiting K2, 145 of them in a single 24-hour period, and only two climbers died. This trend continued in 2023, with 112 summits and just one death, dramatically lowering K2’s overall death rate from 25% in 2021 to approximately 13%. This shift has sparked a reconsideration of K2’s viability as a guided trip, with Himalayan chronicler Alan Arnette stating, “The Everest model is now official on K2.”

The Dangers of Overcrowding and Ethical Concerns

However, K2 remains inherently dangerous. Overcrowding, especially in technical sections like the Bottleneck, has become a significant concern, leading to traffic jams that heighten the risk of accidents. Moreover, increased traffic has raised ethical issues surrounding high-altitude climbing labor. A notable incident in July 2023 involved an under-equipped porter named Muhammad Hassan, who collapsed high on the mountain. Allegations surfaced that dozens of climbers ignored Hassan while he lay dying, though later reports indicated that climbers like Kristin Harila did attempt to render aid. This incident led to an investigation by Pakistan’s government, resulting in a two-year ban on Lela Peak Expeditions, Hassan’s employer.

K2’s Climbing History

Survey and Name Surveyed by the British Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1856, K2 was named as the second main peak in the Karakoram Range. Unlike its counterparts (K1, K3, K4, and K5), which were later named with local names, K2 retained its original designation due to the absence of a local name.

Early Expeditions The first attempt to climb K2 was in 1902, led by Oscar Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley, who approached from the Chinese side and attempted the Northeast Ridge. They reached approximately 6,525 meters (21,407 feet) but were ultimately unsuccessful. Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi, led another attempt in 1909 from the Pakistani side but also failed.

Notable Attempts and First Ascent The 1939 American Karakoram Expedition saw Fritz Weissner and Pasang Dawa Lama reaching within 600 feet of the summit before tragedy struck, leading to the loss of climber Dudley Wolfe and three Sherpas. Another American expedition in 1953 faced a violent storm, resulting in the death of Art Gilkey.

K2 was finally summited on July 31, 1954, by Italian climbers Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni via the Abruzzi Spur. Their expedition, led by Ardito Desio, was successful but not without drama, as controversies arose regarding the positioning of their high camp and the subsequent near-fatal bivouac of Walter Bonatti and Amir Mehdi.

Recent Climbs and First Winter Ascent K2 saw its second ascent 23 years later in 1977 by a Japanese team. The first winter ascent occurred in January 2021, by a 10-person Sherpa team led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Nirmal “Nims” Purja. Tragically, the same season claimed the lives of prominent climbers Sergi Mingote, Atanas Skatov, Ali Sadpara, Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto, and John Snorri.

First Ski Descent In 2018, Polish ski mountaineer Andrezej Bargiel completed the first summit-to-glacier ski descent of K2, showcasing an extraordinary feat of skill and endurance.

K2’s Climbing Routes

Abruzzi Spur The most popular route, the Abruzzi Spur, accounts for over 75% of K2 ascents. It features several technical and exposed sections, including House’s Chimney and the Black Pyramid, with the Bottleneck posing a significant challenge near the summit.

Other Notable Routes

• Cešen Route: Runs west of the Abruzzi and connects with it at the Shoulder, avoiding some of the technical obstacles but presenting its own risks.
• Polish Route: A direct and hazardous line up the South Face, first ascended by Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski in 1986.
• Magic Line: Considered one of the hardest routes, first successfully climbed in 1986 by a Polish-Slovakian team.
• West Ridge and West Face: Known for their technical difficulty, with the West Face being first ascended by a Russian team in 2007.

North and East Routes

• North Ridge: A striking line from the North K2 Glacier to the summit, first climbed by a Japanese team in 1982.
• Northeast Ridge: A challenging and rarely attempted route on the mountain’s left flank.

Conclusion

K2’s history is a testament to human endurance, resilience, and the relentless pursuit of adventure. Whether you’re a seasoned mountaineer or an armchair adventurer, the tales of triumph and tragedy on K2 are endlessly compelling. For those gearing up for their own outdoor adventures, the new Outside+ app on iOS is an essential tool, providing invaluable resources and insights to enhance your experience. Download it today and step into the wild with confidence!

Source: https://www.climbing.com/places/k2-worlds-second-highest-mountain/

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