The expedition was planned quite differently from how it ended. However, this doesn’t mean it turned out badly. We set off towards the valley of Tuctubamba with two donkeys and their guide, Lučo, carrying our 120kg of luggage. A view of the unbelievably dry Taulliraju South greeted us, and it was then we realized our original plans were not feasible. We scouted both cols above the valley to find a suitable climbing target, transforming into tourists for a while.
Nevado Tauar, 4950m – May 30th, 2024
We left early on May 30th for the tower, which we had been eyeing constantly from our Indian tepee. I led the first four pitches, which were not harder than V+, though there was only one or two pieces of pro per pitch. After reaching the fourth belay, Ďuri took over. The wall became steeper and the climbing more challenging. Ďuri onsighted the next four pitches, placing 3 bolts by drilling from climbing positions. Just below the summit, we switched leads, and I led the last pitch just before sunset. After placing the rappel anchor, we hurriedly descended. The result of our day was a beautiful 9-pitch route, 340m high, graded 7a+, called Guardian of Tuctubamba Valley.
Laguna Suyrococha Wall, 4700m
During our exploration trek, we discovered a wall with fascinating rock shapes that begged to be climbed. We established two routes with a 20-minute approach from Laguna Suyrococha. Gringos was climbed on June 2nd. Starting at 4500m, the route follows a pleasant, logical line for 170m with difficulties up to 6b. We placed 2 protections in the first and third pitch and a bolt at each anchor. Gracias Bandidas was climbed a day later, even closer to the Laguna. This route offers 5 pitches of pleasant climbing up to 5c on interesting rock, with a bolt at each anchor and additional protection in the 5th pitch. With nothing left for us to do in the Tuctubamba valley, we returned to Huaraz and turned our attention to Ocshapalca.
Ocshapalca, 5888m
We saw a photo of Ocshapalca from Vallunaraju, and the south face looked promising. We decided to spend our last three days climbing in the Valley of Llaca. We managed the arduous ascent through the valley with all our bivouac gear in just 4 hours. We quickly chose a line and started climbing early on June 9th. The seemingly never-ending ice climbing occasionally gave way to mixed pitches, each more beautiful than the last. We anticipated an easier climb through a snow-ice section to the ridge, which we eventually reached in the dark.
Completely exhausted, we rappelled back down to the start of the route and navigated the labyrinthine glacier back to our tent. Fortunately, the fog lifted, and we found our morning tracks guiding us home. We returned to our tent 16 hours after setting off. The route ends at approximately 5800m, like other routes, and was not marked in the guidebook. Later in Huaraz, we confirmed that the top section shares the exit of another route, significantly altered by recent conditions. We named our addition Orgasmo Multiple (M7 WI5 90°, 600m, 12 pitches), possibly the most difficult route on the face at the moment.
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